After fifteen years of roasting coffee, I've learned that certain coffees carry history in their cup. This series, "vinz's cabin," shares what I've observed from the cooling tray—not marketing claims, but actual brewing and roasting behavior.
Today's subject is Yemen Mocha Mattari, a coffee that predates most of what we consider "specialty" by several centuries.
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| Yemen Mocha Mattari coffee beans on a cooling tray after roasting |
1. Why This Yemen Mocha Mattari May Feel Different Than You Expect 🚀
Yemen often gets framed as "exotic" or "wild," and that's not entirely wrong. But Mocha Mattari specifically tends to behave differently than other Yemeni lots.
What most people expect from Yemen is intense ferment, barnyard funk, and unpredictable acidity. Mattari grade beans from the Bani Mattar region do carry winey acidity and earthy depth, but they also express a surprisingly consistent dark chocolate sweetness that anchors the cup.
This isn't about taming wildness—it's about recognizing that high-altitude natural processing, when done with traditional care, produces structure alongside character.
2. Understanding the Name: Mocha Mattari
Mattari refers to the highest commercial grade within Yemen's coffee system. It comes from the Bani Mattar region, west of Sana'a, at altitudes between 2,000 and 2,500 meters.
The coffees are heirloom varieties—Bani Mattari and Ismaili lineages that have been grown here for generations. Processing is natural, done on rooftops or earthen floors, which explains the deep fruit concentration.
The grade matters because Mattari beans are denser and more uniform than lower grades. This affects heat transfer during roasting and allows for more deliberate development.
3. Overall Flavor Direction and Mouthfeel ☕
The sensory direction of this coffee leans toward dark sweetness rather than bright fruit. There's winey acidity present, but it sits beneath layers of molasses, dark chocolate, and dried fruit.
Body is full and textured—almost chewy—with an earthy mouthfeel that doesn't feel heavy. The finish carries spice and cocoa, extending longer than you'd expect from a City roast.
What stands out is the absence of sharp edges. Even with bold acidity, the cup feels rounded and cohesive.
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| Yemen Mocha Mattari coffee beans with dark chocolate notes and winey acidity, natural light, artisanal roasting |
4. How This Coffee Tastes Across Brewing Methods
I brewed this coffee through multiple methods to observe how it responds to different extraction variables. Each method brought out distinct aspects of the bean's structure and sweetness profile.
| Brewing Method | Flavor Direction | Body / Mouthfeel | Notes or Cautions |
|---|---|---|---|
| Espresso | Brown sugar and dark chocolate dominance from start to finish, with dried berry, cherry, and apricot sweetness layered beneath; cashew and walnut richness throughout | Very creamy body with oily texture from nuts; exceptionally clean finish | Best method for showcasing the best dark chocolate note coffee character; no bitterness or harsh aftertaste |
| Hario V60 | Deep red fruit flavors—cherry and plum—come forward; very smooth on the swallow; brown sugar sweetness persists to the end | Lighter body than espresso but still smooth | Clean cup with no unpleasant aftertaste regardless of pour technique |
| Cold Brew | Caramel notes dominate; oily nut character is pronounced; dark chocolate sweetness remains present; intense sweetness like high-sugar peach or blueberry | Rich and concentrated | Longer extraction time amplifies sweetness and nut oils |
| Other Methods (AeroPress, drip coffee maker) | Brown sugar and dark chocolate consistently present across all methods; berry aromatics remain pleasant throughout | Varies by method but always clean | Highly forgiving across extraction tools; consistently good results |
Espresso makes the most sense for this coffee if you want to experience its full depth. The pressure extraction pulls out both the creamy body and the layered sweetness—brown sugar, dark chocolate, stone fruit—without introducing bitterness. The nut oils come through clearly, and the finish stays clean even at full intensity.
5. From the Roaster's Side: What Stood Out During Roasting 💡
First crack brings up intense brown sugar and berry aromatics immediately. The smell is strong and sweet, almost disorienting if you're not expecting it.
The challenge with Mattari is that not all beans crack at the same time. If you discharge too early, some seeds remain underdeveloped, and you'll taste grassy, green notes in the cup. I've learned to extend the roast window significantly.
After first crack initiates, I drop the heat as much as possible and hold the roast for an additional 1 minute and 40 seconds. This is longer than most City roasts, but I'm controlling the temperature carefully to avoid color development beyond City.
Normally, 1 minute 40 seconds post-crack would push you into Full City territory. With this bean, precise heat management keeps it at City while allowing full crack completion. The goal isn't to darken it—it's to ensure every seed finishes developing before discharge.
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| Freshly roasted Yemen Mocha Mattari beans on cooling tray, City roast profile, artisan coffee roasting process |
6. Who Will Enjoy This Coffee, Based on How It Brews
This coffee makes sense for people who prefer dark sweetness over bright acidity. If you typically reach for Central American coffees with caramel and chocolate notes, Mattari will feel familiar but deeper.
It also suits anyone looking for low acidity coffee without sacrificing complexity. The winey acidity is present, but it's integrated—more of a backbone than a feature. If citrus-forward Ethiopians feel too sharp, this offers an alternative.
For espresso drinkers specifically, this bean performs consistently well. The extended roast development translates to forgiving extraction, and the creamy body holds up under pressure.
It may not suit those who prefer clean, tea-like profiles or floral aromatics. This is Vincent van Gogh's favorite coffee in character—bold, earthy, historically significant—but not delicate.
7. Final Thoughts: Choosing It With the Right Expectations
Yemen Mocha Mattari carries weight—in cup profile, in history, in the way it asks to be roasted. It's the world's oldest coffee origin, and that lineage shows up as depth rather than novelty.
If you're looking for dark chocolate notes that don't come from over-roasting, and you want body without heaviness, this coffee aligns with that intent. It brews forgivingly across multiple methods, which matters if you're still figuring out your equipment.
Not every coffee needs to challenge you. Some just need to make sense when you drink them.
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